Sashimi is my life.
That’s right. If it weren’t for sashimi, I probably wouldn’t have travelled. When I was in my 20’s, finding delicious sashimi in Tokyo wasn’t as easy. (That is not to say that there aren’t still countless numbers of local fish that can only be enjoyed in the rural or outer regions of Japan.)
Every time I taste delicious fish, I revisit the time when my friends and I were travelling and, I’ve since forgotten where it was but, I has the most exquisite tasting local fish that I had ever tasted in my entire life. At the time, I was mortified to find the words “I’m hooked” pop out of my mouth. In my defense, however, it was a completely unintentional pun that emanated from my mouth. That taste was a taste bud epiphany and luckily it had not cheapened the experience.
In any case, I remember that it was a tiny restaurant in a port city. I remember that it was a snowy night in the entertainment district in the north. And so it goes that with every season, I travel around in hopes of discovering the hidden flavors of each region much like I had that night. In fact, with respect to why I have travelled on so many local trains over the past 20-odd years, I would have to say that the greater half of my motivation has been driven by my passion for finding something delicious.
Now, I will take you down my memory lane of tastes, not necessarily in order, and without naming particular restraunts or even clarifying with region they were located; and nominate 15 seafood dishes that I considered especially exquisite. Why 15? Because an even number like 10 feels like a rather unnatural number. By nominating these restraunts, I would like share with the people in Japan, and the people around the world, these tastes and flavor experiences and, at the same time, create my own archive or record of them.

Nodoguro [Blackthroat Seaperch] Sashimi
★Obama City, Fukui – Restaurant name undisclosed
In recent years, “nodoguro” has become well-known as a “gourmet fish of Japan”, its popularity driven mostly by the media. That is why it now fetches such a shockingly high price even in rural restaurants (although I’m sure wholesale prices are probably just as formidable). It has always been a gourmet fish that is good raw, stewed or broiled, and it seems like it not too long ago that it was still affordable… I’m reminded of the time, back in 2008, when I took a local train from Wakasa Bay to Obama City, through snowy fields just as New Year’s Eve turned into New Year’s Day. I stepped off the train into biting cold winds and walked through the town’s deserted main street into a small Japanese restaurant. There, I had a bite of firm, fresh white fish that I will never forget. Having had to survive in the Sea of Japan’s freezing waters, the nodoguro had the perfect fat content for a deliciousness and savoriness that instantly melted away all of my travel fatigue.

Kawahagi [Filefish] Sashimi (w/ liver)
★Nationwide -　Restaurant names undisclosed
Honestly, kawahagi is delicious no matter where it is served. It can be caught anywhere, so it can be ordered fresh in any region of Japan. So, when it is the “catch of the day”, I’m always inclined to order it. It is particularly delicious between late summer and winter. For those of us who like to drink, kawahagi white fish with liver and soy sauce is a classic, like fois gras hors d’oeuvres. Enjoying dollops of the creamy liver intermittently with slices of light fugu [pufferfish] is indescribably indulgent. You can also enjoy it at home. They are pretty easy to clean, so the next time you see fresh kawahagi at the store, I hope that you’ll ask how to prepare them for your own appetizers. If the ones you take home have bulging livers, then consider yourself a winner.

Kuroshibikamasu [Promethichthys Prometheus] Sashimi
★Misaki, Kanagawa
This is probably a fish that you’ve never seen or even heard about. “Kamasu” is “baracuda” in Japanese, but if the scabbard is compared to a shiny silver long sword, then the kuroshibikamasu can be compared to a dark blue short sword. In Misaki, it is also referred to as “datsu [garfish]”, but it is actually a different fish from the fearsome halfbeak fish. In any case, this strange-looking fish makes for some truly tasty sashimi. When you bite into the tender, slightly pink-colored meat, you taste a sweetness that is not quite fatty tuna or salmon, but could possibly be described as a butteriness.

Iwagaki [Rock] Oysters
★Tottori City, Tottori – Restaurant name undisclosed
It was midsummer in Toyama when I had some full-bodied Iwagaki oysters that were so plump they reminded me of the soles of platform boots. I remember them being so expensive that my friends and I split two between the four of us, but ended up ordering one each because they were so delicious. Those of us who were lucky got ones that oozed liquor in our mouths. However, we were all surprised by how sweet and creamy the meat was and pondered, “…So this is what iwagaki oysters are like.” Since then, I have tried iwagaki oysters in many different places, but I have only been lucky to have had the same “oozing liquor” kind twice. What I wouldn’t give to be able to taste that flavor even just once every summer. Fortunately, delectable iwagaki oysters aren’t limited to Toyama, but can be found in the San’in region, as well.

Hanasaki King Crab
★Fish Market in Kushiro
It’s not like I have tasted all of the different kinds of crab across Japan, so maybe it’s not saying much, but the most delicious boiled crab I have ever tasted was the Hanasaki king crab I bought at a fish market in Kushiro. Boiled crab tastes best when it is served straight from the pot, but the crab that I ate at that time wasn’t freshly boiled. No matter how hard I try, I have yet to taste another crab that has the same full-bodied flavor and juiciness of the crab that I had that day. I’m not sure if the word “rich” can be applied to the taste of crab, but for lack of any better word, I’d like to say that that Hanasaki king crab had an incredibly rich flavor. When people think of Hokkaido one of the first things they think of is crab, and that image has had tourists flocking to Hokkaido from all around Asia. I had an opportunity to visit Sapporo recently and tourism industry is booming. However, given how vast Hokkaido is, I think that the value of travelling outside of Sapporo to the more rural fish markets of Hokkaido in search of delicious crab would be well-worth the cost.

TRIBUTE to SEAFOOD – 15 Fish Dishes (Archives) – To be con’t.